Saturday, February 28, 2009

Moments that change everything

I looked out of the plane window, saw the Eiffel Tower and snapped this photo through the Paris pollution. I was just a regular person on her way home from giving a paper at a conference. The Paris stopover was a reward to myself for having survived some tough years with my sanity relatively intact. Originally planned for only a couple of days, I extended the trip in order to facilitate my once in a lifetime opportunity to see my long-time music and words love, Mr Leonard Cohen, in Lyon. I always wanted to go to France, always knew I would.

But, I didn't know that going to France would change everything.


I took a ride on one of those double decker open topped tourist buses in order to get a feel for the the layout of the city. I quickly grew annoyed at the loud-mouthed tourists getting excited by the LV store and insisting on telling me their life stories. I got off the bus and walked around. It started to rain and I sought shelter under the umbrella I'd bought the week before in Dublin. It was an Irish umbrella and and kept collapsing on my head. I didn't care. I was happy. I was wet through. Most of the people disappeared. Not me. I stayed in the rain with my collapsing-on-my-head-umbrella and before long I felt something change.



Another day I danced in the street with this man while waiting for a carnival to start.


I caught the TGV across France. I experienced Leonard Cohen in France on top of a hill overlooking the city of Lyon. The audience was unlike any other I've ever experienced. Strangers went out of their way to be friendly to the woman who'd travelled alone all the way from Australia. Everyone was just so civilised.

*****


I came back to Australia, happy to see my family. But something had changed.


*****


I started French classes, took to reading everything about France I could, renewed my French genealogy obsession, started a France related blog having become obsessed with reading the lives of expats in France. All the while I'd never felt more like an alien in the country of my birth. . .



. . . other stuff happened. One day I saw a book in a shop. I opened it and read the first few lines and peeked through the photographs but resisted buying it as I thought it would only make things worse while in that frame of mind. . .

. . . more stuff happened. One day I wrote a blog post around the time of Dorothy Porter's death and received a comment along the lines of "I have come to accept that sometimes we are born in a place that isn't suited to our personality." Someone got me, the person who'd written that book, no less. I felt something change.

*I bought the book. It was wonderful. Maybe you would like it too.



Leonard Cohen came to Australia. I cried when I heard the news. He wasn't supposed to do that. He was my once-in-a-lifetime-in-France-dream-come-true. Of course in the end I couldn't resist the opportunity to see him not far from home. Despite hesitating I managed to get wonderful tickets. I could actually see his features this time. I went with someone I love and now he loves Leonard.

Leonard Cohen was as brilliant as he'd been in France seven months earlier.

BUT. . . the show was in an Australian winery. On an outing to an Australian winery most Australians don't have a glass or two of wine. The idea for many at a concert in an Australian winery is to get pissed as fast as possible. They run buses to the venue to allow for maximum drunkenness. So, naturally lots of people got very drunk, and very loud. Many staggered up and down the aisles, called out inappropriately, and were just so. . . gross and Australian, I suppose. The people next to us were falling all over the place, talking, yelling out, talking some more, spilling wine on me and singing along off-key.

Mostly I focused on Leonard and refused to let it spoil my night.

Yet I felt that all too familiar alien-in-a-strange-planet thing creeping up on me. At some point during the evening the thought "I have to get the fuck out of this country," ran through my head like a mantra. Some people hear the voice of The Lord and have a life changing moment. In my moment of clarity I just heard sewer-mouthed Me. I can still hear my voice and see the words, they're imprinted in my brain like a tattoo.

The next day I spoke the words out loud. It has to be, I said. It may not be forever and it won't happen straight away. It may only be a couple of months at a time when I can manage it. But it is going to happen...

. . . because something changed.

14 comments:

Anonymous said...

Ohh, you made me miss it even worse, posting those top two pics.

Funny, when I was flying in, on my trip, I looked and looked for the tower and was disappointed not to be able to see it. maybe it was on the other side of the plane or something. :-/

Indigo. xx

Yasmine said...

Nice blog. I love Leonard Cohen too. You can ask me anything you want about France :)
Yasmine

Isabelle said...

Whenever the big day comes, Michelle, I will be extremely happy to meet you!

Birdwell said...

I love this post.

There's a lot more I want to say--I just can't find the proper words.

La Belette Rouge said...

What a beautiful post and one that I relate to. One of the philosophical fantasies I have is about what was the one moment that changed peoples lives. I may look like I am standing in line at the grocery store but what I am really doing is asking that question about the person in front of me or the checker.

Going to Paris changed my life in ways I can articulate and ways I can't. I am better for that moment and always will be even if I never returned( gawd forbid;-).

Notre Vie Juteuse said...

my first trip to paris 15 years ago changed my life...i actually felt like I had been there before, everything seemed so familiar. 2nd time there (9 years ago) was amazing and I love Paris...love france and knew that i wanted to live here one day. It will happen to you. I just know it.

vicki archer said...

Michelle, what a lovely post and how I understand your sentiments. Thank you for visiting French Essence and your thoughtful comment - glad to have found you. xv

Mrs C said...

I know exactly what you mean.

And now when I go "home", I can't help it, I feel so foreign.

I can hardly wait to meet you.

Michelle said...

Indigo, sorry about that :-) I thought it intresting that I wasn't that interested (so I thought) in seeing the tower, but when I did, from the plane at least, I reacted physically.

Yasmine, Thanks for the kind comments and offer. Maybe I will take you up on that.

Isabelle, I will keep you to that!

Birdy, Thanks. Words constantly evade me these days :-)

Michelle said...

LBR, I too ponder that, and ask those questions about strangers! I think we all have a few defining moments. Sometimes we can't, or won't act on them. I am not sure if I am better for discovering France at this point. I suspect I am a pain in the behind as I negotiate my way around the new me that seems to be emerging. Hopefully, in time I will be.

NVJ, I look to you for inspiration as (mammoth bike treks aside) I see similarities in your approach to life.

Vicki, Thank you. The feeling is mutual, believe me.

Ah, Mrs C, I think our meeting will be a moment to remember :-)

Billy said...

So, you were also in Le Théâtre Romain de Fourvière à Lyon when Leonard Cohen went there last July! Great, such moments are invaluable... I am glad we shared that one, and to (almost) meet you again today Michelle.

Thank you for your recent comment on my blog. It was nice to hear I don't always write for myself only after all. Now reading yours. Cheers.

Michelle said...

Hi Billy, nice of you to stop by, and almost meet again.

Ah yes, I was mostly certainly there. What a special and significant night in my life that was. I never thought I'd (almost) meet someone who was there with me.

'Le Théâtre Romain de Fourvière à Lyon' will always be magical words to my ears.

Billy said...

Oh, by the way, I suppose you're aware of this, aren't you? Live in London.

Michelle said...

Hi Billy,

Actually, no I wasn't aware of that.

Thank you so much for telling me about it.